Tuesday, March 28, 2006

Bolivia news March 28, 2006

Here's some of our local news that you probably haven't heard:

  1. According to the local news this morning, the Bolivian national airline, LAB, lost their leases on both aircraft that they used for international flights due to non-payment, which will eliminate their flights to the US and to Spain. Also, they’ve been cut off from their supplier of jet fuel for non payment. The government of Bolivia, after briefly trying to intervene in the airline, has turned it back over to its owners. This has prompted a hunger strike among the airline’s employees who are pushing to have the airline re-nationalized. Evo has said that the owner/manager of the airline is a “corrupt mafioso” and that he must have paid off the auditing firm who found that the company had not broken any laws in their current path to bankruptcy. Why do we even need auditing firms when Evo can just decide who's right and who's a corrupt mafioso?
  2. They finally found the real identity of the man who bombed those hotels around the bus station last week – I don’t remember his name just now – but with his real identity in hand they’ve been able to determine that he’s a psychopath wanted in the United States on terrorism charges, has been deported from nearly every country in Latin America, and entered Bolivia illegally. What happens to him now has yet to be determined. But, the US is still unhappy with Evo for having accused George Bush of sending the bomber to Bolivia. In fact, the US Ambassador has been boycotting meetings with the Bolivian government for the past few days, including a diplomatic reception for Evo and a donor’s meeting to see about funding to help the flooded areas of Bolivia. Evo continues to insist that relations with the US are “normal”, but just this morning on the news the vice-president admitted that relations with the US government are at an “all time low.” But, the vice-president is still hoping to make a trip to the US to see if the US will cancel its Free Trade Agreement with Colombia, which has caused Bolivia to lose its sale of soy beans to Colombia.
  3. In the newspaper this morning it was announced that the US and Europe-financed Alternative Development program is abandoning the Chapare and is refocusing all of their resources on the Yungas. I would be more enthusiastic about this announcement if it weren’t for the fact that relations between Bolivia and the US are at an all time low, which directly influences the amount of aid dollars to be spent in Bolivia. If things proceed in this direction, we could see donor funding for Bolivia dry up until after Evo’s term in office.
  4. The MAS (the socialist narcotrafficking party that preys on the illiterate) has admitted to setting up multiple shell political parties in addition to their own party, the MAS, to send delegates to the upcoming Constitutional Convention in August. In light of this news, the two main opposition parties – PODEMOS and UN – have visibly stepped up their campaigns to send delegates to the convention. They have stated that they’re attempting to stem the MAS’s attempts to establish a single party dictatorship in Bolivia. Also, it’s been reported that both the Catholic Church and a coalition of the protestant churches are preparing delegates to send to the constitution convention, to prevent the atheistic MAS from confiscating church buildings to be converted to public schools, as per the rampant rumors around Bolivia.
  5. Multiple blockades and strikes are currently underway around Bolivia, besides the LAB strike. Most notorious are the blockade of the Yungas by the city of Coroico who are demanding that the road construction contractor pay the city $1M for sand taken from nearby river beds, and the strike by the transportation workers' union who are protesting the government's decision to legalize ownership of stolen vehicles. This decision was taken by the government after a different transportation workers' union strike to demand the legalization of owning stolen vehicles - and the MAS caved, as has every previous administration in recent years .

Thursday, March 23, 2006

Mad Bomber in La Paz


Here is a bit of our local news that probably didn’t make your local news:

Last night, as I was walking home from church I walked past the Chilean consulate just around the block from my house, and I couldn’t help but notice a larger than usual contingent of heavily armed policemen guarding the consulate. I wondered what was going on. This morning as I watched the morning news report on TV I found out what: they’ve captured the bomber from yesterday and he said that his next target would have been the Chilean consulate. Turns out that our mad bomber is a 22-year-old kid married to a 40-something woman from Uruguay. According to the police report on the news, this kid has a Saudi father and a Bolivian mother with US citizenship, so he has three passports. In his American identity he uses the same Lestat name as the main character in Anne Rice’s “Interview with a Vampire” novel, and listed his occupation as a “Pagan Priest.” In his Saudi identity he’s supposedly a 30-something lawyer. In his Bolivian identity he sells explosives. His Uruguayan wife even posed nude holding a box of dynamite in an advertisement for their explosive business. Also according to the news, this guy has been kicked out of both Uruguay and Argentina for terrorism and was reportedly the one behind all of the ATM bombings in Buenos Aires last year. Of course, since one of his three citizenships is from the United States, Evito is all over it like stink on a dog. Evo had claimed publicly that the US government in general and W Bush in particular sent this Lestat creature to Bolivia specifically to destabilize the country and sow terror. The new Bolivian chancellor/court jester said that Bush had sent this clown to assassinate Evito himself. Now that’s responsible statesmanship. My Bolivian friends have said that now that Evo and his crew have accused Bush of sending an assassin to kill them, that he really should send an assassin to do the job right. “Please” they said. But in all seriousness, so far there’s no apparent motive for these bombings in La Paz – no political agenda, no potential for income. I figure insanity can be his only cause. Leslie figures that with the whole killing people by bomb modus operandi, the kid must have been auditioning to be Bolivia’s next vicepresident, since that’s how our current vicepresident got the job – by bombing the American Embassy, killing the marine guards, back before the embassy was the fortress that it is today.

Also today in the news, we here in Bolivia are commemorating 127 years of having lost our sea coast to Chile. For some reason, Bolivia feels that they’re closer than ever to getting the sea back now that Chile and Bolivia both have socialist presidents. I don’t know – I’ve lived and worked in Chile and I know that they’re pretty proud of the fact that they whipped both Bolivia and Peru in that Pacific War of 1879 and I don’t believe that they’d give back any territory willingly. Plus, I’m pretty sure that the residents of Arica would not appreciate switching from being citizens of the richest, most developed country in South America to being citizens of the poorest and least developed. Further, it’s not clear to me, or to anyone with whom I speak, just which territory with a sea coast Bolivia might acquire from Chile. I hear them pushing for Arica – but Arica was Peruvian territory before the war. Would Chile give to Bolivia what used to be Peru’s? How would Peru feel about that? Or should Chile give Bolivia back Antofagasta, a chunk out of the middle of Chile, cutting Chile in two pieces? Then would Chile give Arica back to Peru also, just to tidy things up? And if Chile gave all that territory back to Peru and Bolivia, should they demand that Argentina give Chile back the territory on the other side of the Andes that Argentina annexed way back when? Is the goal to get back to the original configuration of the South American countries as originally drawn up at independence from Spain? But if that did happen, Bolivia would more than double in size, having lost over 50% of its original territory to various wars with all of their neighbors over the past couple hundred years.

Speaking of Chile and Argentina, attached is a photo that I took along the border between southern Chile and Argentina, that I took during our family's Christmas trip to the Chilean and Argentine patagonias. Amazing, isn't it?

Wednesday, March 22, 2006

Bolivia news March 22, 2006


Let me catch you up on some of our local news that probably didn’t make your local news:

This morning (Wednesday, March 22) I heard a large explosion at 7AM – I thought that maybe the Lost-the-Sea-to-Chile Day celebrations had kicked off a day early (the anniversary is the 23rd of March), but just in case I turned on the morning TV news report where I saw they were reporting on two huge bomb explosions last night in small local hotels around the bus station – the first explosion at 9:30PM last night which completely destroyed that hotel, and the second at 2AM this morning that only partially destroyed that hotel but broke out the windows of all the buildings on the block. The images on the TV and in the morning newspaper looked like Beirut in the 80’s. The different news reports on different channels have different stories – either an Arab man and a Uruguayan woman were arrested for the bombings, or it was a North American man and a Uruguayan woman. Why someone would bomb these poor little hotels is beyond me. On my way to work this morning I looked to see what had exploded in our neighborhood, but both the Hotel Calacoto and the Casa Grande were intact.

In the electric industry news, yesterday Evo approved the new “Dignity Tariffs” for electrical retail rates. These tariffs were first proposed by Carlos Mesa and offer nearly wholesale rates for everyone with a consumption of less than 75kWh/month, which means that nearly everyone in Bolivia except myself will be paying considerably less for their electricity. I’ve already run the financial analysis on our projects in Potosi at these rates and have determined that the utilities won’t be able to pay for more than 10% of their O&M costs, never mind anything for administration costs or even send out bills. I don’t know if the government is planning on subsidizing the utility’s operations out of the national treasury or what. Will the last person to leave the country please turn out the lights?

Also yesterday, Evo kicked off a new literacy campaign, utilizing Cuban instructors and instructional materials. I can see the materials now: “Look Dick, see Spot run. See Spot run from the evil capitalist. See how democracy has repressed Jane. See the evil democratic government exploit the workers through capitalism. See how Dick and Jane will be much happier once the socialist dictator has re-nationalized all of the industries privatized in the 90’s.” According to Evito, only Cuba and Venezuela have 100% literate populations, as opposed to the United States where they have some huge, unspecified percentage of illiterates. Now, I don’t argue that the US has its fair share of illiterate people, but I’d be willing to bet dollars to donuts that our percentage is a good deal lower than either Cuba or Venezuela. Speaking of Venezuela, the attached photo is of the Venezuelan dictator, Hugo Chavez, with his wanna-be, Evo Morales. You'll note that Evito is sporting his infamous sweater that he wore to meet all of the heads of state on his pre-inaugural "Rainbow Tour" earlier this year.

Also this week, the government decreed a doubling of the minimum wage. According to the local captains of industry they will now be shutting down production and laying people off. And, according to my Bolivian friends who make more than the minimum wage, this increase also means that everyone’s income taxes will be significantly reduced because the tax rate is tied to the minimum wage, thereby reducing the income to the national treasury.

A little earlier this month, on the local political front here in Bolivia, the divide between the east and west got deeper and deeper. Evo and company wanted to convoke a constitutional convention but the folks from down east in Santa Cruz, Tarija, and Beni didn’t want the socialists to write the next constitution, so they wouldn’t support the convention. Without the eastern block, known locally as the crescent moon, Evo couldn’t rouse enough votes in congress to call the convention, so then he threatened to convoke street protests (as the president?) Meanwhile, the eastern block wanted a referendum on departmental (departments in Bolivia are like States) autonomy, but Evo said that those issues needed to be corrected in the constitution itself. So then, the eastern section of the country threatened to secede from the union if they didn’t get their way. And then, all of a sudden, one Monday morning congress announced that they’d come to an agreement on everything – they’re going to hold the referendum AND hold a constitutional convention next August 6th – just like that. Everyone agreed and everyone got their way. I’m so surprised that I almost don’t know what to think.

But then Bolivia lost their huge income from selling soy beans to Colombia because Colombia just signed the TLC (Free Trade Agreement) with the USA, so they’ll now be buying their soy beans from the USA for a much better price than Bolivia was offering. Bolivia, under this new government, so far has refused to even discuss never mind sign the TLC with the US government. In fact, since the US refused to issue visas to some of the newly elected MAS politicians because of their ties to terrorism, the Bolivian government officials refused to attend a reception that the US Ambassador held when some dignitary from the US was in town (I don’t know which – I was in Florida at the time.) So then the US was the only country not represented when the combined diplomatic corps held a reception in honor of Evo’s new presidency. So, the further we go along this year, the further apart the US and Bolivia become. And since the US has been Bolivia’s biggest financial supporter, over $150,000,000 last year, it’s going to hurt eventually. I’ll tell you, after watching Bolivian evening news for four years now, it’s always a shock to see the bad guys waving to the masses out the window of the presidential offices – for the past four years these guys were on the streets inciting riots and now for the past three months they’re on the inside. And speaking of having the bad guys in the presidential offices, this month I avoided a meeting with the new murdering terrorist vice-president – I begged off a meeting that Fernando arranged telling him that I thought that the presence of a gringo at the meeting would not help our company's future in Bolivia – after careful consideration he agreed.

And then, as if to underscore the widening divide between the US and Bolivia, Evito picked a fight with the US military. Apparently there was an anti-terrorist unit within the Bolivian military that was secretly formed after 9-11-2001 in which the US provided weapons, munitions, uniforms, training, etc, in exchange for getting to hand pick the leaders of the special unit – and was kept a secret until earlier this month when it was exposed by Evo himself. I assume that this type of deal is probably in place in most of our allied countries. Anyway, the US pulled the plug on this $500,000/year in funding when Evo changed the commander of the unit for one of his guys – one of his rabid anti-American guys. What’s more, according to my friend the military attaché, all of the new generals under this government are at least professing an anti-American stance – even the guys who were our friends under the former government – just to keep their jobs. What I’ve seen in the various ministries with which we deal is that all of Evo’s boys are anti-American. Anyway, the high-tech arms provided to the anti-terrorist unit were only loaned to Bolivia by the US, who has asked for their return, to which Evo has responded that he’s not giving them back and if the US tries to come and get them then Big Brother Hugo Chavez will protect us, since the Venezuelan army is constantly training to repel just such an American invasion.

On the bright side of the news, Bolivia’s new Chancellor continues to make us all laugh. His latest antics include:

1. A statement that the average life expectancy in Bolivia is 200 years. Boy, I’m never leaving Bolivia again.
2. A statement that coca is more healthy than milk and a recommendation that the school breakfasts make the switch. Unfortunately the Minister of Education declined the suggestion.
3. A rule that the qualification for being a diplomat from Bolivia is that the diplomat speaks Aymara. That should really help out the ambassadors from Bolivia to places like Germany, France, and the United States.

Monday, March 20, 2006

Work trips around Bolivia March 2006


On the work front this month, I made several trips around Bolivia, including trips to Trinidad, Oruro, Potosí, Sucre, and Cochabamba, to hold meetings with the newly elected governors (Prefectos) to verify that they were on-board with our on-going jointly funded rural electrification projects. We were curious because the new governors hadn’t made any payments toward the projects since taking office. Anyway, on our trip to Trinidad we had to fly Amazon Airlines since the national carrier, LAB, went out of business. Amazon is not my favorite airline since it only flies in fair weather, only has non-pressurized airplanes, and has crashed a couple of planes just since I’ve lived in Bolivia. This trip we flew on a Fairchild “Metro”, locally called the “cigarette” or “pencil” because it’s so skinny. I had to stoop over to walk down aisle and as I sat in my seat my head was right up against the roof (and I’m only 5'-6"); this plane has one seat on each side of the aisle, and is nine seats long. But we made the flights to and from Trinidad without incident. I was leery of this trip, since we’d been forewarned by our friends that it was a trap – we’d been advised that the governor didn’t just want to be informed about the status of our current on-going projects, but that there was a group of angry beneficiaries from a former project from back in the 90’s congregated and laying in wait to pressure us into forgiving the million dollars in counterpart payments that they never made (now we require that counterpart payments be made prior to initiating projects.) And sure enough, after we’d made our presentation to update the governor and departmental council on the status of our current project, in they came to yell and deride and criticize Fernando and I about some ancient projects that were executed before our time. After they were done we just left, letting them know that they’d wasted their time on us. And of course, since we were down in the tropics, I came home the next day with itchy puss-oozing bug bites up and down my legs. I just love working in the tropics.

For our trip to Potosí the next week we decided to travel overland – Potosí is too high and windy for airplanes to land there comfortably, so you have to fly to Sucre and drive to Potosí anyway. I was a little worried about the drive because the day before we traveled there had been three different blockades on the road between La Paz and Potosí – one demanding the release of the community leaders who stoned and then burned their mayor last year, one protesting a comment that the fish in Lake Titicaca are contaminated, and one demanding supplies for a local kindergarten. But according to the evening news report all of the conflicts were resolved so we decided to risk the trip. It was a very long and winding road, over 500km across the altiplano, but without event, until just 45km away from Potosí when we hit a major blockade. This blockade was to demand the replacement of their non-MAS party mayor with someone from the MAS. At the end of the line, just ahead of us, were the support vehicles for the US Ambassador and the head of USAID – but the diplomats themselves were nowhere to be seen. After hanging out for a while at the end of the several kilometer long line of stopped vehicles, we decided to drive up to the front of the blockade to see if we could find a way across – the time for our meeting was fast approaching. So we threaded our way between the stopped buses and trucks who parked so haphazardly that it seemed like they were part of the blockade until we got to the blockade itself. At the blockade, the campesinos were so thick that they not only massed on the road, but they were also spread out around the edges of the surrounding canyon walls so that they looked Sitting Bull’s braves surrounding Little Big Horn. Just as we got to the front of the line of stopped traffic, at the blockade itself, the blockaders let us through – as they waved us through it looked like they were laughing at us for having fallen into their trap.

There in Potosi we headed directly to the governor’s palace on the main plaza downtown. As we unpacked our laptops, data projector, and documents from our vehicle parked across the plaza from the governor’s palace, a big herd of protestors came marching past the front of the palace, complete with exploding sticks of dynamite. It turned out that they were teachers’ college students asking the governor to buy furniture for their college. After the march went past the front door and rounded the plaza, we took our chance to go in but found the palace locked up tight like the old Spanish fort that it is. Fortunately someone came along and showed us the emergency entrance around back where we had to wind our way into the palace through the narrow back passages, more like a crack in the wall. Inside the courtyard of the palace we passed a troop of heavily armored riot police – I guess in case the protestors succeeded in blasting open the front gates. Eventually we were shown in to the governor’s office. This US-educated newly elected governor is a member of the MAS party but was very cordial and accommodating in spite of my being a gringo and was very receptive to our presentation on our joint project. It was, however, somewhat distracting during our meeting to have the marchers congregated outside and chanting and yelling at us. That night, after our meetings, Fernando and I tried to leave town and drive to Oruro, where we had a meeting scheduled with that governor the next day, so we wouldn’t get stuck in any more blockades, but the blockade that had let us through earlier that day was back in place – apparently they had only opened the road for thirty minutes – so we had to turn around and sleep in Potosí.

We got up dark and early the next morning to see if we could run the blockade in the dark, by the light of a gorgeous full moon – but no such luck. The blockade was well manned all through the night with 500 campesinos and another 500 in reserve just off the hill. This darn blockade was strategically placed on the road through a canyon, so that the shortest detour around it would have taken over 12 hours to get to the next nearest city to La Paz (Cochabamba.) The blockaders in this area all wore their local uniform of either black or white pants, black jacket, red woven poncho, and these funky hats that you almost have to see to believe. The hats came in two layers – the bottom layer looked like a knit cap in the shape of a pointy dunce cap with ear flaps with little dingle balls hanging off the ears. On top of the knit cap was perched a white straw bowler style hat with a black ribbon hat band. And whereas Fernando and I shared a chuckle at the funny chapeaus, being stuck in the blockade was no fun. After sun up we decided to go forage for food, the benefit of being in a private vehicle instead of being stuck on a parked bus – we found a little store down the road a ways (back toward Potosí) that sold us some buns, a can of pâté, and a bottle of orange drink. When we drove back to the blockade we found the area hopping with pedestrians – people were getting off the buses, walking through the blockade, and then getting on the buses on the other side. As the buses filled up with their new passengers they turned around and went back to their points of origin, now destination. Some local boys were showing their entrepreneurial spirit by carting luggage back and forth in their wheelbarrows. After several hours of waiting, at around 10AM, the people still stuck behind the blockade started getting restless and started shouting at the blockaders to let us all through. A while later the blockaders got the party started in earnest by setting off a series of dynamite explosions – the blasts really reverberated off those canyon walls.

Several times over the course of the day Fernando walked up to the site of the blockaders to see what was happening – I chose to stay in the car since I didn’t think that I could pass for anything other than a gringo and I didn’t want to become a permanent “guest” of the blockaders, to be used as a bargaining chip later. Even so, Fernando tells me that I wasn’t invisible to blockaders who walked by – he said that there was a stir among the blockaders about the gringo sitting in a car working on a laptop. Fernando carried my camera with him and acted like a press photographer and took a few photos of the blockade and blockaders. At around 11:00 a host of blockaders came storming up to our car – that was a bit disconcerting, but I didn’t let it show. As it turned out they weren’t coming for me – they were coming for the taxis that were picking up passengers who had walked across the blockades. First they chased away most of the taxis, brandishing big sticks – Fernando, who got up close to where he could hear what they were saying, reported that they were berating the taxi drivers for gouging the passengers crossing the blockade on foot. Then they took one taxi driver (who was rumored to be the brother of one of the local politicians) and his car prisoner – we didn’t see him again. At noon we observed a pickup drive up to the blockade and serve the blockaders a nice lunch of soup and bread and then a dessert of coca and alcohol.

The scariest event in the day was just after I’d used up the batteries in my laptop and was reading the Old Testament when all of a sudden I heard shouting and running and looked up and saw the blockaders stationed up on the hill throwing rocks down at the people walking across the blockade. As the rocks rained down, the people were running and shouting – I saw at least four people with bloody head wounds run by. Since Fernando was out scouting just then, I started scooting over to the driver’s seat so I could drive the car out of the way of the flying rocks. But just then I looked up through the windshield and saw this huge rock flying straight for me. Too late, I thought. Fortunately, Bolivians are all soccer players and not baseball players and the rock fell a couple of feet short of the car – it shattered on impact with the pavement and fragments bounced up and rattled around on the windshield and hood of the car, but without enough force to break anything. Then the blockaders came running after everyone, chasing them with big sticks. One young guy stuck his head into my window and cursed at me – I couldn’t understand him through his thick Aymara accent except for the cuss words. Shortly after the dust settled Fernando came back and told me that the blockaders were mad because some of the women pedestrians had given them a good cussing, which prompted the hail of stones.

After waiting a few hours more (there was a rumor that the blockade would be lifted by 2:00PM) we decided to head back the opposite direction, back to Potosí, and from there to Sucre, and then on to Cochabamba. Between Potosí and Sucre we noticed a large congregation of campesinos along the road and jokingly commented that they were probably getting ready to set up another roadblock, hence totally isolating the city of Potosí. Ha ha. But we made it to Sucre without incident. For the next leg, the road between Sucre and Cochabamba was under construction/repair, so it was only open after 5:00 in the evening, so there was no sense in trying that route any earlier. The mostly unpaved road was very long, winding, dusty, bumpy, and boy did I get car sick – the Dramamine that I had taken at 4AM that morning was well and truly worn off before we got anywhere near Cochabamba. It was also over 600km to Cochabamba – we finally arrived to our hotel at about 12:30AM. I was still so sick even the next morning that I couldn’t even eat breakfast (which is my favorite meal of the day.) Since we had a meeting with the Prefecto of Cochabamba that evening, we took advantage of working there that day. I worked with my local engineer, Percy, who lives there while Fernando had a series of meetings. Percy told us that we were lucky to get out Potosí when we did since the campesinos set up a blockade of the road between Potosí and Sucre right after we made that drive. Whew.

After working in Cochabamba all day we had our meeting with the Prefecto at 6:30 that evening. We introduced ourselves and explained several ideas for projects to which the Prefecto was very receptive. Finally, at about 8:30 that evening we headed for La Paz. It was all smooth sailing until just over halfway back to La Paz we ran into a major blockade on the highway. Fortunately we could observe that several trucks were making their way cross-country around the blockade, so we followed them. But just a couple of miles up the hill we ran into another blockade which had been set up to catch those who were going around the main one. Fortunately, Fernando was able to negotiate a price with these guys and we bought our way through – we were told that we had to drive with our lights off – thank heavens for the full moon. A few miles later, when we got to a bridge on the little road, we found a gaggle of campesinos blockading there too – they said that they had built that bridge and needed to take care of it. Fernando asked them if 10Bs ($1.25) would help maintain that bridge – they said yes – and we rolled on our way. Our little detour around the blockaded highway took us to Oruro, at least two hours out of our way, so we ended up getting home at 2AM this morning, after making a trek of over 1600km. The next day we learned that the miners from Oruro blockaded the highway to La Paz, so we narrowly avoided being stranded in Oruro, which, like Potosi, doesn’t have a commercial airport.

Word from people who know is that these blockades are being organized and funded by the MAS party, in order to pressure the recently elected non-MAS mayors into resigning their posts in favor of a successor from the MAS party. Also, it’s interesting to note that Evito has proposed a law that would allow him to appoint any new Prefecto in the case that one of the elected Prefectos were to die or resign. I think it’s obvious that the MAS is working in an organized and concerted fashion to consolidate all of the power in their party. When that is complete I look for a new law allowing Evo to stay in office indefinitely, ala Hugo Chavez and Fidel Castro.

Sunday, March 19, 2006

Flashback: Carnaval 2006 in Cochabamba


Cochabamba is in central Bolivia and is famous for its eternal spring weather – and it was certainly nice for us during our three days and three nights there. We’ve been meaning to visit Cochabamba for four years now, but something has always come up – usually road blockades – so we decided to just fly there this time before we missed it permanently. Since it was a holiday weekend all of the museums were closed, which made Les and me sad and the kids happy. ?! So we had to content ourselves with lounging around the pool and watching cable TV at the hotel and frequenting the bowling alley (the only one in Bolivia) across the street from the hotel (I’m sad to report that my bowling scores are only about half of what they were about 20 years ago when I used to bowl once in a while.) And, since it was Carnaval, all of the kids in town were out throwing water balloons at each other, passing vehicles, and innocent pedestrians. The boys especially targeted cute girls, and my little blondies felt particularly picked on – so it was hard to walk anywhere – we ended up taking a lot of taxis where we normally would have just walked. One of the local sites that was not closed for the holiday was the 33-meter-high (plus a “little bit”) statue of Jesus on a hill overlooking Cochabamba (the “little bit” was to trump the 33-meter tall statue in Rio.) We were able to bypass climbing the 1250 steps up the hill by taking the cable car up to the top. We went on Sunday morning, after church, so we could take advantage of the fact that on Sunday they open the statue so that you can go up inside it and climb to the top for an extra high view of the city. Finally, we came home on Tuesday night – we count this as another successful trip because we all made it home with all of our luggage.

On the political front here in Bolivia, our new president, Evito, has established a work pace that even he can’t maintain. Convinced that politicians are lazy and don’t work hard enough (I really can’t argue with him there) he started his term by working from 6AM until 8PM every day, and most of the government agencies have tried to keep pace. But finally he broke down and got sick – it turns out that his body needs rest just like the rest of us. Maybe this experience will help him gain a little wisdom and he’ll learn that an 8-10 hour work day should be sufficient if he’s just a little bit efficient in his work practices. In fact, that’s been one of my biggest irritants while working here in Bolivia – the locals who think that a good worker has to work until all hours of the night instead of working efficiently through the day. I know that at my office I get more work done between the hours of 8 and 5 than the rest of the crew together gets done even though they stay at the office late into the evening. Everyone here needs to learn that working late doesn’t mean you’re working smart. Anyway, it’s also been interesting to see all of the Cuban and Venezuelan “advisors” that have been placed in all of the governmental agencies with this new government. Remind me – what country is this? And what decade is this? Does no one remember the collapse of communism and the exposure of its complete failure as an economic system? Does no one realize that the former Soviet States are all worse off than Bolivia is and that they’re nothing to be emulated? And speaking of which, it’s been interesting to see how vogue it has become to have gotten your engineering degree in the USSR or in Cuba – engineers who have hidden that fact in the past are bringing it out now as if it were something of which to be proud. Of course, I never miss an opportunity to remind them of the sorry state of the former Soviet power systems – my company has been called upon to sort out more than one (Kyrgyzstan, Georgia, and now Tajikistan.)

Saturday, March 18, 2006

Strange Lunch Hour - from Feb 16, 2006


Well, I had a strange lunch hour today. I had a meeting this morning that lasted until 12:30, so I missed going to lunch with my local engineers at noon. So I strolled on over to Ketal by myself and ordered a lomo sandwich and while I waited I couldn’t help but notice a sudden flurry of movement over in front of the frozen yoghurt place – there was a cholita standing there in the shade of that little tree on the sidewalk selling grapes and two other cholitas attacked her box of grapes and started flinging her bunches all over the place. Heaven only knows why they were doing that, but they only quit and waddled away when these two fully armed and armored riot policemen appeared out of no where – they stood guard over the remaining grapes while the first cholita gathered up her scattered bunches. I had to wonder where the two riot policemen had come from – as I looked around I noticed that instead of one armed guard in front of the various banks on Calle 21 there were two fully equipped riot policemen. And then I noticed that there were also two armed policemen at every ATM on the street as well. There was also the normal contingent of traffic cops directing traffic – nothing unusual there. The unusually large police presence started making me nervous about what could be up. I started listening for the sounds of an imminent mob or some such. While I was surveying the police presence all around the Ketal, a police truck pulled up in front of the frozen yoghurt place and another ten armed policemen hopped out. Then all of the policemen on the street, riot and other, converged on an officer who gave all them some instructions that I couldn’t hear. I don’t know what they said but they kept pointing in the direction of the Costanera. Then they formed up and trotted out of sight – in the direction of the Costanera – to what purpose I don’t know. It was very surreal, but kept me amused while I ate my lunch alone.

Friday, March 17, 2006

Vicki's Wedding in January

Our maid Zenobia asked Leslie and me to be the godparents of her daughter’s wedding (Vicki). We weren’t sure what that meant – my experience was limited to having seen the movie with Marlon Brando – but it turns out that it meant that we helped pay for the wedding and we were the two witnesses in the wedding itself. It was interesting to attend the wedding – first, the justice of the peace arrived late due to a traffic pileup that blocked off our whole neighborhood. Then, after a brief civil ceremony, and after signing a dozen documents, we did the reception line, Les and I being a second set of parents in the line – for three hours. During the reception line people brought gifts, and if the gift was cash they pinned it on the dress or suit jacket of the newlywed, and piled confetti and flower petals on our heads. Our kids were a bit unhappy about spending that much time sitting around and waiting for us. Then we all got up to dance to a rock and roll gospel band – the dance was holding hands and skipping along in a long snaking human chain while the band sang the entire text of the New and Old Testaments. Everyone was still going around and around (I think they were just rounding out the Book of Job) and guests were still arriving when Les and I followed the kids out to the car. I know we weenied out early – they hadn’t even cut the cake yet – but we’d reached our limit and it was obvious that the festivities were just warming up (I heard mention of a 2AM quitting time.) I guess we’re not cut out to be serious socialites.

Thursday, March 16, 2006

Las Alasitas, Evo's Inauguration, and the Millennium Challenge


One day at work, as I was walking to lunch with a couple of my local engineers, we passed our office messenger along the way who handed each of us a $100 bill. ?! Then I realized that it wasn’t real – in the States it would be called counterfeit – that day was the opening of the Las Alasitas festival. Las Alasitas is an annual festival with Aymara roots where you can buy miniatures or replicas of nearly anything and then, if you get it blessed and then burned by an ordained Aymara witchdoctor, you’ll acquire that thing in the coming year. Stacks of dollar bills, sacks of gold coins, passports, certificates of degrees, houses, and cars are all very popular items. When we reached the main road on our way to lunch we could appreciate that the street was packed with stalls and shoppers for several blocks in every direction – I’ve never seen so many Alasitas stalls set up in our neighborhood before – the big Las Alasitas market is located uptown. My local guys said that when there’s a national crisis the people really turn out for Las Alasitas – hoping that it will bring them good fortune.

At work, I re-started my big Yungas projects this month (January) – which have been on hold since September when my previous contractor walked off the job – with two new contractors. Getting my new crews up and going required that I spend a significant amount of time this month in providing training seminars. I guess we’ll see if we can actually wrap up this project this year. We got off to a slow start when the rainy season started early and wiped out both the old and the new roads into Yungas with landslides. The new road has never been officially opened yet because of the continuing landslides; when you include the cost of all of the repairs and maintenance on the un-inaugurated road, it brings the total cost up to $4M per km spent to-date – and they still don’t have a functional road. Meanwhile, the old “World’s Most Dangerous Road” continues to swallow up lives by the busload.

Also in January, the dreaded Yemen project kept raising its ugly head, eating up valuable time – the budget on that project is so tight that I can’t actually bill my time to the project unless I’m physically in-country. I’m not looking forward to returning to Yemen after the string of kidnappings of foreigners there in December. Poor Yemen is such a basket case of a country – in most of the country they have no schools or clinics in the rural areas because of all of the tribal warfare. What little petroleum they had is about to run out, and they can’t produce anything else because they’ve grown accustomed to a 3-hour work day and then spending the rest of the day zoned out chewing Qat leaf. Their government is (currently) pro-USA while the populace is largely pro-Bin Laden – I guess we’ll see how long the government stays in our camp now that Yemen’s been bounced from W’s “Millennium Challenge” funding for a host of deficiencies, including corruption. What a mess. (*See my note on the Millennium Challenge below.) In Yemen’s favor – it is a very visually striking place – I’ve never seen anything like it before.

On the political front here in Bolivia, for the first three weeks of January everyone was feeling a bit nervous about the newly elected government, especially the bureaucrats in the government offices with which we work. This is the first time in Bolivia’s history that they’ve elected a president: 1) with an outright majority, 2) who is an Indian, 3) who doesn’t have a high school education, 4) who, along with his vice-president, is a “confirmed bachelor” (the graffiti on the city walls has been considerably less kind), and 5) who is militantly pro-coca. The fact that he’s openly anti-USA isn’t new – it’s a throwback to the bad old days of the 50’s and 60’s. Venezuela’s president, Hugo Chavez, has been able to afford to stay anti-US through the years thanks to the pre-existing industrial infrastructure he inherited and unlimited petrodollars flowing in from the US. But the formerly radical socialist candidates of Brazil and Uruguay seriously softened their stance when they became presidents of their respective countries, so we have hopes for ours. Our new president, Evo, was busy all month prior to his inauguration on a “Rainbow Tour” of the world, tapping the leftist governments of Cuba, Venezuela, Brazil, Argentina, France, Spain, Belgium, China, Iran, and India. But all together they haven’t offered him a fraction of the financial support that the US has been giving to Bolivia. So, at the end of his tour, while in South Africa, Evo “pardoned” the US for all of the humiliation that we’ve “heaped on Bolivia over the years.” I guess Evo has proven that he’s not so dumb after all. Now we’ll have to see how the two governments tackle the drug trafficking problem while Evo totally legalizes coca. Speaking of legalizing coca, my construction inspectors in the Yungas tell me that the hotels and restaurants in Caranavi have lost all of their employees – reportedly they’ve all headed to the hills to grow coca. One thing I have to say for Evo, however, is that he’s shaking up the world leaders’ dress code – he goes around in blue jeans, tennis shoes, and a polo shirt (and a sweater, when it’s cold) and refuses to wear a tie or suit. The stuffed shirts of Europe really had a cow when he met the king of Spain in his casual wear – you’ve got to kind of like the guy for that at least.

Evo’s inauguration was kicked off on Saturday the 21st with full Indian rituals out at the ruins of Tiahuanaku, where he was crowned king of the Aymara tribe – we caught a few minutes of it on TV. Then on Sunday the 22nd he was officially inaugurated president of Bolivia (in his open collared shirt.) His honor guard consisted of as many miners as soldiers – it made me wonder who will protect him from the miners when he hasn’t solved the economic problems in short order, or who will protect him from the soldiers if his economic policies return Bolivia to the bad old days of hyperinflation and worthless national currency (the 80’s.) Actually, Venezuela has offered to send in troops to Bolivia if anyone tries to overthrow Evo. On the night of the inauguration we enjoyed the red glare of many rockets through our upstairs window as Bolivia threw Evo a much bigger bash than any of the other four new presidents that have been inaugurated since we’ve lived here.

And besides the new president, Bolivia has elected a 90% new parliament (talk about throwing the bums out), totally dominated by the new president’s MAS (socialist) party – they have the presidency of the Senate and the House. (An amusing aside: our newly elected president has announced that he, the vice-president, and the presidents of the House and the Senate will all four be sharing the Presidential mansion. He says that the house is big enough for all four and that way they’ll be able to work more closely together.) So anyway, the new president is going to have a free ride, as far as getting congress to go along with whatever he decides his program is going to be. My personal prediction is that this first time Indian government isn’t going to do any worse than all of the previous white governments; but I am curious to see how the general population is going to react when they see that the new government hasn’t solved all of their problems in short order. Will they be more patient than they’ve been with the recent white governments? Or will they turn on them and rend them like dogs? The first indications of which it would be came on Evo’s first day in office, the Monday after the big inauguration party on Sunday, when he named his cabinet. Then the miners’ union announced that they didn’t like the new Minister of Mines, the teachers’ union didn’t like the new Minister of Education, and the health care workers didn’t like the new Minister of Medicine. Further, the residents of El Alto are apparently on the outs with their former leader who led the movement to oust the private water company here in La Paz/El Alto and who was named the new Minister of Water. Who knew? And everyone is sniggering at the house maid who’s been named as Minister of Justice. So now the new government has been given one week to make changes “or else.” On the “positive” side, the workers seemed to be OK with the new Minister of Work who promised to raise the minimum wage. Hmm… I foresee both inflation AND blockades in the near future.

On Tuesday Evo “retired” the top two tiers of the armed forces commanders and installed the third level guys as the chiefs of the various armed forces. Of course that created a bit of an uproar among the outgoing military guys, but in the end they went without a fight (although there was something in the news about their protesting wives getting roughed up a bit.) I had to wonder at the brashness required to shake up your military establishment like that – surely he must have worried that it could backfire on him. But now that it’s over and done, I can see that it was probably a good thing to remove anyone senior enough to consider making himself the next military dictator, and to have the new top generals beholden to you for their new positions. By Wednesday the first wave of protest marches hit La Paz – the Landless Movement were protesting that two and a half days of the new government had already gone by and they were still landless. So… that’s how it’s going to be. On Thursday Evo cut government salaries by 57% (good thing) but then practically doubled the government employment (bad thing) by creating a whole host of “shadow” positions – Soviet-style social consciences to parallel the technical oriented vice-ministers (imagine the vice-minister of electricity having to get concurrence from his socialist counterpart every time he wants to approve or reject a project.) With the news of all of the new government positions opening, La Paz was flooded with unemployed “campesinos” looking to get on the gravy train. Next Evo will have to deal with a whole host of disenchanted campesinos who didn’t get one of those cushy government jobs.

And speaking of newly elected socialist governments – I guess you all noticed that Chile just elected a socialist president this month – their first woman president too. I’m thinking that that makes a clean sweep of all of South America. The other day I was eating lunch with a friend of mine who is a Chinese expat married to a Danish diplomat. He thought it was too bad that the US has so neglected relations with the South American countries that the whole continent has gone socialist and has made tight ties with China – I heartily agreed. For those of you who haven’t noticed, China’s skyrocketing development (thanks in no small part to Wal-Mart) has left them voracious for natural resources, far beyond what they can produce domestically, which they’re now going to be getting from South America. And, since said resources are finite, that means that the US will quickly find ourselves shut out of the world market, which will put the brakes on our own economic progress. Way to go US.

*Note from above: The misbegotten Millennium Challenge Account, administrated by the newly created Millennium Challenge Corporation, has yet to disburse its first dollar to ANY developing country because the nimrods who dreamt up this idea want to give the money directly to the foreign government after they’ve passed a host of economic, financial, and ethical tests – like that’s ever going to happen. Worse, if a country ever did pass muster, World Bank studies show that 50% of all money donated directly to a developing country’s government is immediately “lost” in the shuffle. I’ve seen both models firsthand in my projects overseas, the one where the development banks give money to the local government to administrate and they promptly skim off the top for their personal accounts, or the model that USAID follows which hires trusted (American) contractors who buy quality (American) products and then execute the projects for the direct benefit of the target population. So now, instead of using our foreign aid to win friends and influence people and maybe even help a few poor people along the way, we’re using ours to alienate nations and turn old friends into new enemies. What’s worse is that this Millennium Challenge Corporation (MCC) has created a whole new bureaucracy in Washington DC (just what we needed) to parallel USAID’s existing bureaucracy. And then, to add insult to injury, the MCC has no infrastructure outside of DC, so they’d have to rely on USAID’s international presence if they were ever to do anything overseas. In summary, we’ve created a new bureaucracy that has an impossible directive and doesn’t have the infrastructure to function at even a minimal level. What a stupid idea – obviously the product of some naïve politician who has no international experience whatsoever.

Wednesday, March 15, 2006

World's Most Dangerous Road


My daughter, Rhiannon, and her whole drama class, was asked to reenact a scary near death experience school bus accident on the World’s Most Dangerous road (the road into Yungas) for a National Geographic special. Apparently the film maker is an alumnus of the American School here in La Paz and in his junior year experienced first hand the school bus accident being dramatized. (The school no longer risks field trips down into the Yungas.) So, look for a National Geographic special on the World’s Most Dangerous Road – coming out I don’t know when. Anyway, let me have Annie tell you all about it:

Ok, I got to the school a little early, about six thirty – we were told to show up at 6:45 – but no one else actually showed up ‘til about five ‘til seven. The National Geographic people didn't even show up ‘til seven fifteen and we actually got on the bus around nine or ten. Then we did the filming of the getting on the bus scene from inside, outside, low, wide, and two of the bus pulling away from the school. On our way out to the village where we would be shooting the movie we stopped hundreds of times for the camera man to move, either getting out to film from the top of a car, or coming back inside (apparently most of their equipment got stuck at customs, so they only had one camera.) At the drug checkpoint on the road into the Yungas the crew just loved the vendor free-for-all when a bus pulled up, so they gave us a little money to buy stuff: fruit, candy and bread (and water guns, but our drama teacher confiscated those). After pulling up to the checkpoint a million times, and getting fresh batteries for the camera, we finally actually went through. The director wanted us to throw the bread we had bought to the wild dogs along the road. One time a boy named Matthias threw a whole muffin to a dog, but right then a car drove by. The muffin went bump bump bump rrooooolllll, over the car, after which the dog actually ate it. The lady in the car looked kind of confused. It was like she was wondering why we were throwing muffins instead of water balloons, and why we were throwing them at her?! So we drove on, stopping occasionally to let the cameraman move about, feeding dogs the bread we bought – not actually sure why, but we did (editor’s note from Dad: it is a Bolivian custom to feed the wild dogs who station themselves along the road into the Yungas because it’s believed to bring good luck to the traveler since the wild dogs are believed to contain the spirits of those who have died on the road and feeding them puts them in a charitable mood.) Eventually we actually got to the village near the road, where we would be doing the actual acting. The first scene was of the swerving bus, and so were the next million. Inside outside, forward, backward, of the driver, of other people, and so on and so forth. Then we did up the filming of up ‘til the swerving (all the while singing: "I know a song that gets on everybody’s nerves"; we had to sing the same song over and over, and guess what, it really does get on everybody’s nerves), the stopping on a ledge, the getting out of the bus, and the pulling the bus back on the road (this last bit was just for a privileged few, of which I was not a part). In the village where we filmed there were several dogs and tons of pigs. All of the kids there (especially the boys) enjoyed feeding all the extra food we had to the pigs. When they were filming some shots of just the driver we explored, and lots of the kids threw rocks over the edge of the road, smoked cigarettes, or fed the pigs. I just kind of tagged along with the pig-feeding group. (I was the youngest person there; everyone else was a junior or a senior) Finally it was done, or at least almost done. We started back for home. On the way we stopped and did the exiting the bus scene again and they got some good "off a scary ledge" shots. Since I had been sitting in the same seat by a window the entire time, I got a scene all to myself of me hanging my head out the window as the camera hung out the window too. After that the directors and the producers or whatever said goodbye and promised us hats, T-shirts, and a copy of the video. The techies stayed on and filmed a little more, but that was the last we saw of those guys. We FINALLY got back home around eight o'clock that night, even though they had originally said we would be home between four and five. Later we found out that they only had either a hat or a T-shirt for each of us, and there were only two people who would get a T-shirt. Lucky me I was one of the two people. They said the documentary would air in fall, and that they would send us a copy during the summer. I know we won't be here in Bolivia by then, but I hope the school will forward it on to me, so it should be fun! So there it is, my adventure making a documentary. It was quite an experience, and I'm glad Dad nagged me into writing it all down.

Tuesday, March 14, 2006

Flashback: Christmas trip around Chile


Our trip to Chile started with a potentially problematic trip to the airport – it was Election Day here in Bolivia and no vehicles are allowed to be circulating on that day with the exception of the election judges and UN observers and a few taxis specially licensed to take foreigners up to the airport for international departures. But we, being foreigners with an international departure, actually made it without any problems – the streets were largely deserted, with the exception of people walking to the polls and many thousands of policemen walking their special Election Day beats. Up at the airport we checked in with the Chilean airline, along with six other American families that we know who were also headed to Chile for the holidays. That first day of our trip was eaten up with our multi-stage flights from La Paz to Arica (200 miles – where we passed through Chilean immigration) to Iquique (120 miles) to Santiago (950 miles – where we passed through Chilean customs) to Puerto Montt (600 miles) to Punta Arenas (820 miles). We finally got to our hotel in Punta Arenas at about midnight – just after it got dark. Punta Arenas, the city farthest south in Chile, down on the Straits of Magellan, is at 53 degrees south, which puts it as far south as Edmonton, Alberta, Canada is north.

Our first day in Chile we explored the town of Punta Arenas a bit in the morning, then picked up our rental car (a 4WD Nissan Mistral) and headed north (400km) across the Chilean Patagonia. Along the way, we spotted condors, rheas – one trailing 11 babies, pink flamingos, black necked swans, guanacos (which look like a slender, long-legged llama), and gray foxes. Our goal was to do a little trekking among the granite towers of the Torres de Paine national park. To do the complete trek around the park takes a week or so, so we limited ourselves to trekking the “W” – a three prong trek to see the best sites in the park (as advised by some of our friends who have done this before.) We did the west side of the W the first day we arrived, starting with a 30 minute catamaran ride across a lake to the point of departure, and hiked 11km to see the Glacier Grey – it was particularly fun to see the icebergs that the glacier had calved off into the Lago Grey. Our second day in the park we did the middle part of the W with a steep 22km hike up through the French Valley, where we were surrounded by landlocked glaciers – it was particularly exciting to watch an avalanche way up on one glacier (far away enough not be scary.) Our third day we finished with the east leg of the W and hiked 18km (the last km was a scramble straight up a boulder field – I tumbled a good portion of the way back down) to see the namesake granite towers themselves. While we were in the Torres national park we stayed in backpacker hostels called refuges, where we shared bunk bed filled rooms with other hikers. Colin Jr. and I had our compact down filled sleeping bags from our Scouting years, so we slept very warmly. Leslie had made herself and the girls some fleece sleeping bags, which were nice and compact, but were not quite warm enough at night and they ended up sleeping with their coats and hats on. And speaking of our rubbing shoulders with the young, backpacker crowd, you should have seen the looks we got as we came trekking into our first refuge packing our roller bags and Army surplus duffel bags on our heads with everyone around us in full North Face backpacker mode – it was pretty funny. Of course, when we started the serious trekking we decanted our essentials into real backpacks and fit in with the crowd a bit better (although, Les and I were considerably over the average age of these backpackers – which just proves that experience and tenacity can compensate for lack of youth and fitness.)

After the trekking segment of our trip, we headed back to Puerto Natales on the Chilean coast for a night, where we enjoyed some great seafood (including yummy abalone) and local ice cream (made with rhubarb and the calafate berry.) From there we headed over into the Argentine Patagonia, crossing their heavily mined border, where we drove 300km to the town of El Calafate. The big draw there was Argentina’s Glaciers National Park. We spent our first full day (Christmas Eve) at Glaciers on a cruise on Lake Argentina (Argentina’s largest lake) to see seven glaciers (including the Upsala that is over 1000 sq km – four times the size of Buenos Aires) that are only accessible via the lake. The iceberg choked lake was really spectacular and it was particularly interesting to see that compact snow in the glacier turns blue the more compact it gets – from powder blue at the top to sapphire blue at the bottom. At one point we were allowed to get off the boat and hike through the hills a bit – Les and the kids waded out into the lake and took a little ride on an iceberg while I played photographer on dry land. That night, just as we were settling into bed at midnight, it seemed like Chile must have attacked Argentina because the sky lit up with tons of booming fireworks – so we stayed up another hour, watching the show from the window – I don’t think I’ve seen many firework shows any bigger than that one. The next day, on Christmas Day, after the kids opened up the few compact presents we’d brought along, we drove to what was billed as the most spectacular glaciers in the world – the Moreno Glacier; it really was spectacular and is listed as one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Who would have thought that watching ice melt was a spectator sport – but we spent most of the day watching the glacier crack and drop off icebergs. That day, back in Calafate, I finally got on-line and found out the results of the election in Bolivia the week before. I was surprised to see that our socialist/narcotrafficker, Evo, won an outright majority with 54% of the vote – the first Bolivian president to ever have a majority. Well – he ran the best campaign of the lot by refusing to elaborate on his dual platform of resource renationalization and coca legalization and by refusing to debate with his educated opponents. In his speech after the results were released he was quoted as saying: “Long live coca, death to all yankees.” So, the near future should be interesting in Bolivia. Anyway, while we were down in the Patagonia, you can bet that we enjoyed some seriously great steak dinners (2" thick and as tender as you could imagine.) The day after Christmas we made a 700km marathon drive back across the windswept plains of the Patagonia (following my handy GPS navigator) all the way back to Punta Arenas, where took a little side trip to see a penguin colony. As Katie would say: “They’re so cute!” And they really are!

On Tuesday the 27th we flew back up to Puerto Montt. At the airport I had reserved another 4WD vehicle to rent, but they didn’t have a 4WD in stock – our first glitch in the trip – so they gave us a full size sedan instead. Actually, the sedan turned out to be a better deal because, unlike the Patagonia, most of Chile has very nice paved roads, and a 4WD vehicle would have been less comfortable. This sedan, a Nissan Primero, had a large computer console in the dashboard, which drew a crowd every time we parked anywhere. While in Puerto Montt I decided to try one of the local seafood dishes highly recommended in the guidebook – called “curanto” – which turned out to be a huge stack of mussels, clams, salmon, and dumplings all topped with a sausage and BBQ pork ribs. Anyway, armed with a nice sedan and some great roads, we made a 1000km circuit of the lakes region, touring the towns of Osorno and Valdivia, and finally settling in the ski resort town of Pucón, where we rented a small apartment. At 40 degrees south, it was interesting to see that it got dark by 10:00PM, a whole hour earlier than down in the Patagonia. Pucón is nestled at the foot of the glacier capped Volcano Villarica, so on the 29th we got outfitted with snow-gear, ice-axes, and helmets (for the falling rocks spewn out by the volcano on regular intervals) and made the 2,847 meter vertical ascent to the lip of the volcano where we found that watching lava boil and spew is as fun as watching glaciers melt. From the top of the volcano we could also see several others to the north and south of us in a long chain. When we decided that we couldn’t take the toxic fumes any more, we walked over to the edge of the volcano, sat down, and slid our way to the bottom – it was the funnest roller coaster I’ve ever been on. It took us four grueling hours of walking heel to toe to get to the top, but only one thrilling hour of sliding on our backs to get to the bottom. Whipping down the mountain in the channels smoothed slick by the bottoms ahead of us was like riding a luge without the luge. Whew! The next day we decided to try our hand at white-water river rafting – so we fudged Katie’s age (12) up to the minimum 14-years-old and signed up for a 3-hour series of class 4+ rapids. At first the river was smooth, so our guide had the time to teach us such skills as row forward, row back, turn left, turn right, all the weight left, all the weight right, and hang on for dear life. The skills weren’t that hard, but hearing, understanding, and doing them when they were all in Spanish was a little tricky for some of us! Satisfied that we wouldn’t get ourselves killed, our guide took us through the funnest roller coaster of rapids that I’ve ever been on. On one killer rapid (just ahead of a 30-foot waterfall, where we had to walk around), our raft went completely vertical and, as I was executing an “all weight left” maneuver, I broke my rib on my son's bony knee (no, I haven’t gotten it x-rayed, but it sure hurts.) But I hung on anyway, as did the whole family, and we didn’t tip over – our guide said that it was a very near thing. Whew! When it was all said and done, everyone agreed that we were white-water fans. After so much high octane adventure, our next stop was at the Puyehue thermal hot springs, for a couple of days of serious relaxation. On New Years Eve we were awakened at midnight when Argentina invaded Chile – or maybe it was just a fireworks show that we couldn’t see. On New Years Day the girls decided to take a horseback ride – they said it was really pretty, even after it started to pour down rain—like the prettiest hilly part of the Lakes district in England. The hot thermal pools really felt good that afternoon.

On Monday the 2nd of January we drove back to Puerto Montt and then flew up to Santiago, where we rented an apartment in Las Condes. When I lived in Santiago 25 years ago, Las Condes was a neighborhood full of mansions – now it’s all been torn down and rebuilt with office buildings and high rise apartments. We took a walking tour of the city and even got to walk through the rebuilt presidential palace that the US Air Force bombed back on 9-11-73 when we overthrew Salvador Allende and installed General Pinochet (Pinochet’s Chilean pilots used to congratulate me on the fine US pilots when I was a missionary in Chile way back when.) It was fun to see the city and how much it’s grown and advanced. The subway system that had only 1-1/2 lines in 1981 now has five whole lines. On one of our days in Santiago we visited the Pablo Neruda house – a Nobel Prize winning Chilean author who spent his money building fanciful eccentric houses. The house in Santiago was so fun that we decided that we needed to see his even bigger and more eccentric main house out on the coast. So, on the 4th we took a bus out to the coast town of San Antonio, where I’d actually served as a missionary. We walked along the pier, ate a yummy lunch, and took a quick side trip up to see the chapel that I had helped construct during my P-days. I didn’t see anyone I recognized – I guess after 25 years none of us looks the same. At the Isla Negra house, we decided we must become rich and successful eccentric authors and start building wild houses for all our stuff. Neruda was fascinated with boats but terrified of the sea, so his houses are built a lot like boats. He is buried facing the sea there, in a monument that is shaped like a big boat. The beach was very pretty in the rocky kind of way, but there was a little sandy beach just below the house, so we got our pants wet at the ankles before we headed back.

On the 5th we thought we were supposed to be flying back to La Paz, but when I was arranging for a ride to the airport I found that our plane tickets were for the 6th. After calling the airline, I found that there isn’t a flight from Santiago to La Paz on Thursdays, so Friday it would be. Oops. Well, there are worse places to spend an extra day than Santiago, Chile. Besides, the kids were really enjoying the local cuisine of Pizza Hut, Taco Bell, and Dunkin Donuts (plus completos, Barros Lucos, and pastel de choclo.) And then I found out that our apartment was already rented for the next night, so I spent a few minutes on the phone and got us a hotel for the extra night, whew, and so we spent our extra day seeing an extra museum (a palace built by a family that owned the coal and silver mines) and then catching the Chilean premier of “Narnia” (in English, no less.)

Finally on Friday the 6th we flew back home from Santiago to La Paz – we arrived safe and sound, complete with all of our luggage, so we can count this as a successful trip. At home that night we held our family Christmas Eve. On Saturday the 7th we opened our Christmas presents and today (Sunday) we finally cooked and ate our Christmas dinner. Tomorrow it’s back to work and school, so I guess Christmas is well and truly over now. The only thing we have left to do is undecorated the house and take down the tree, but because we’ve been gone for the past few weeks, it hasn’t started to wear on our nerves, and it can easily wait to next weekend.

Thursday, March 02, 2006

President George W. Bush and Iraq


"The President is merely the most important among a large number of public servants. He should be supported or opposed exactly to the degree which is warranted by his good conduct or bad conduct, his efficiency or inefficiency in rendering loyal, able, and disinterested service to the Nation as a whole. Therefore it is absolutely necessary that there should be full liberty to tell the truth about his acts, and this means that it is exactly necessary to blame him when he does wrong as to praise him when he does right. Any other attitude in an American citizen is both base and servile. To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public. Nothing but the truth should be spoken about him or any one else. But it is even more important to tell the truth, pleasant or unpleasant, about him than about any one else."

Theodore Roosevelt in the Kansas City Star, 149, May 7, 1918

“While we hoped that popular revolt or coup would topple Saddam, neither the U.S. nor the countries of the region wished to see the breakup of the Iraqi state. We were concerned about the long-term balance of power at the head of the Gulf. Trying to eliminate Saddam, extending the ground war into an occupation of Iraq, would have violated our guideline about not changing objectives in midstream, engaging in "mission creep," and would have incurred incalculable human and political costs. Apprehending him was probably impossible. We had been unable to find Noriega in Panama, which we knew intimately. We would have been forced to occupy Baghdad and, in effect, rule Iraq. The coalition would instantly have collapsed, the Arabs deserting it in anger and other allies pulling out as well. Under those circumstances, furthermore, we had been self-consciously trying to set a pattern for handling aggression in the post-cold war world. Going in and occupying Iraq, thus unilaterally exceeding the U.N.'s mandate, would have destroyed the precedent of international response to aggression we hoped to establish. Had we gone the invasion route, the U.S. could conceivably still be an occupying power in a bitterly hostile land. It would have been a dramatically different--and perhaps barren--outcome.

Excerpt from "Why We Didn't Remove Saddam" by George Bush [Sr.] and Brent Scowcroft, Time (2 March 1998): or page 489 of Bush and Scowcroft's book, A World Transformed (Alfred A. Knopf, 1998).

Our nation is presently engaged in a debate about whether to launch a war against Iraq. It is beyond dispute that Saddam Hussein is a menace. He terrorizes and brutalizes his own people. That said, we need to think through this issue very carefully. We need to analyze the relationship between Iraq and our other pressing priorities--notably the war on terrorism... But there is scant evidence to tie Saddam to terrorist organizations, and even less to the Sept. 11 attacks. Indeed Saddam's goals have little in common with the terrorists who threaten us, and there is little incentive for him to make common cause with them. He is unlikely to risk his investment in weapons of mass destruction, much less his country, by handing such weapons to terrorists who would use them for their own purposes and leave Baghdad as the return address. Given Saddam's aggressive regional ambitions, as well as his ruthlessness and unpredictability, it may at some point be wise to remove him from power. Whether and when that point should come ought to depend on overall U.S. national security priorities. Our pre-eminent security priority--underscored repeatedly by the president--is the war on terrorism. An attack on Iraq at this time would seriously jeopardize, if not destroy, the global counterterrorist campaign we have undertaken. The United States could certainly defeat the Iraqi military and destroy Saddam's regime. But it would not be a cakewalk. On the contrary, it undoubtedly would be very expensive--with serious consequences for the U.S. and global economy--and could as well be bloody. Finally, if we are to achieve our strategic objectives in Iraq, a military campaign very likely would have to be followed by a large-scale, long-term military occupation. But the central point is that any campaign against Iraq, whatever the strategy, cost and risks, is certain to divert us for some indefinite period from our war on terrorism. Worse, there is a virtual consensus in the world against an attack on Iraq at this time. So long as that sentiment persists, it would require the U.S. to pursue a virtual go-it-alone strategy against Iraq, making any military operations correspondingly more difficult and expensive. The most serious cost, however, would be to the war on terrorism. Ignoring that clear sentiment would result in a serious degradation in international cooperation with us against terrorism. And make no mistake, we simply cannot win that war without enthusiastic international cooperation, especially on intelligence. ... the results could well destabilize Arab regimes in the region, ironically facilitating one of Saddam's strategic objectives. At a minimum, it would stifle any cooperation on terrorism, and could even swell the ranks of the terrorists. If we are truly serious about the war on terrorism, it must remain our top priority. In sum, if we will act in full awareness of the intimate interrelationship of the key issues in the region, keeping counterterrorism as our foremost priority, there is much potential for success across the entire range of our security interests--including Iraq. If we reject a comprehensive perspective, however, we put at risk our campaign against terrorism as well as stability and security in a vital region of the world.

From: “Don't Attack Saddam, It would undermine our antiterror efforts.” By BRENT SCOWCROFT Wall Street Journal, Thursday, August 15, 2002 12:01 a.m. EDT
(Mr. Scowcroft, national security adviser under President Gerald Ford and George H.W. Bush.)

Former President Jimmy Carter said Friday that there isn't "any doubt" the American people were misled about the war in Iraq and that President George Bush's policy on the war is a "radical departure from the policies of any president."

In an interview with CNN, Carter addressed some of the comments made in his new book, "Our Endangered Values: America's Moral Crisis." In the book he says the Bush administration was determined to attack Iraq using "false and distorted claims after 9/11."

Carter said the Bush administration spoke of mushroom clouds, weapons of mass destruction and the threat of thousands of Americans dying to garner support for the war. No weapons of mass destruction have been found in Iraq.

He was careful to say he didn't know whether intelligence was misinterpreted or purposely twisted, and Carter praised the attempts by his fellow Democrats in Congress to press efforts to look into the matter.

"If the investigation would go ahead and proceed, as Democrats have been trying to in the Senate now for more than 18 months, then we will know the circumstances under which the American people -- and I think an entire world -- was misled about what was going on in Iraq," he said.

Carter added that he had seen no evidence the White House was involved in the CIA leak investigation that ensnared Vice President Dick Cheney's chief of staff, I. Lewis "Scooter" Libby, last week.

Libby is accused of lying to investigators and a grand jury probing the disclosure of the identity of a CIA officer whose husband had challenged administration claims that then-Iraqi President Saddam Hussein had been trying to restart his nuclear weapons program.

Carter also said that the administration's pre-emptive strike doctrine directed against the possible future use of weapons of mass destruction is a spurious basis for a war when there is no immediate threat to America's security.

"We'll bomb, strafe and send missiles against their people even though our security's not directly threatened," he said. "This is contrary to international law. It's also contrary to what every president has done in this country for more than 100 years, Democrat or Republican."

As the former president spoke from the Carter Center in Atlanta, Georgia, protests in Mar del Plata, Argentina -- where Bush is attempting to promote free trade among the 34 nations comprising the Summit of the Americas -- had turned violent.

Shown live footage of the protests, Carter said the United States' reputation in the world is as low as it's been in his lifetime and that the United States has lost its prestige, authority and influence in Latin America. He added, however, that the chief opponent to the Free Trade Area of the Americas, Venezuelan President Hugo Chavez, is a "demagogue."

Before the protests turned violent, Chavez denounced capitalism to thousands of demonstrators from his perch in front of a six-story banner of communist revolutionary Che Guevara. Protesters, including Argentine soccer legend Diego Maradona, listened as Chavez claimed he would "bury" the Free Trade Area of the Americas proposal. Maradona wore a shirt accusing Bush of war crimes, while protesters called the U.S. president a "terrorist" and a "fascist."

Carter defended Bush and dismissed as rhetoric the words of the Venezuelan president.

"The personal attacks on the president and the condemnations of America by Hugo Chavez from Venezuela, I think, are completely unjustified and uncalled for," Carter said. "Chavez is a difficult person with whom to deal personally. I know from my own experience."

ATLANTA, Georgia (CNN)

Wednesday, March 01, 2006

Circle By Harry Chapin


All my life's a circle;
But I can't tell you why;
Season's spinning round again;
The years keep rollin' by.
It seems like I've been here before;
I can't remember when;
But I have this funny feeling;
That we'll all be together again.
No straight lines make up my life;
And all my roads have bends;
There's no clear-cut beginnings;
And so far no dead-ends.